Extreme Flight 69in Turbo Raven Guide

So the other day a long-time customer emails putting some good questions to me. Ones, for which I suspect others would like answers and just like that, we find ourselves with another caseSTUDY.

This time regarding the Extreme Flight’s 69″ wingspan Turbo Raven (a model so nice, I own one myself). So here’s what he asked me;

I'm looking to buy an EF Turbo Raven and what they recommend are two servos with which I'm not so familiar and I wonder what you would recommend. As you know, I have 4 sets of your DS160CLHV in my Extreme Flight collection of 60” models to include my Extra NG, Extra 300 EXP, and Laser plus my AJ Models 61" Slick 540.

So I've been plenty happy but this will be my first large model (this one has a lot longer 69" wingspan). They recommend two servos that are much stronger than the DS160, a Theta THM989 making 319 ounces and a Savox SV1261MG that makes 277 ounces.

Until I realized, I was thinking of ordering another set of the DS160 but this model is larger so once I saw their recommendation I paused and wondered if that would be a mistake because 160 ounces would not be enough servo for the Turbo Raven. So far I'm plenty happy with the DS160 but the Turbo Raven is a lot bigger model.

So here's my question, am I right, would another set of DS160CLHV be a mistake? And what would you recommend, instead?

And by the way, speaking of right, you were about the 32mm servo arms I got from you last time. I like them better because I prefer the model's handling at a ball mount position that's between two on the set of EF 1-1/4" arms. I also need three sets of PDRS32-25T servo arms. One set for my new Turbo Raven, and two more sets for my Extra NG and the Slick 540, please.

TL: DR

So my response forms the basis of this caseSTUDY, and while this TL:DR cuts to the chase, it does so without nuance. First a summary of how I responded, in brief . . .

• For how ‘you’ fly, the DS160CLHV will be fine for a 69″ Turbo Raven
• Reason they guide to 300oz-in class servos is for aggressive pilots
• Guides for both recommended servos are within matchUP

So first, I’m familiar enough with my customer to know he’s not a gifted Dusia-type of XA-pilot. He’s a regular club pilot sort who can perform elevators, hover pretty well, and is practicing waterfalls and Harriers. I guided him to a servo he’s familiar with because for how he flies he’ll be fine. But I don’t know everybody as well so you need to self-select to a certain degree because we have six alternatives.

We’ll try our best at guiding you but we’ve never flown together, as opposed to knowing him for years (and speaking a million times). So while he’s a good pilot (and damned good flying the old FAI schedule), he really only fools around with some XA-maneuvers for fun. It’s not like he comes home from work and spends the evening on the simulator. Really means our faster and more powerful servos would be pointless since the only place he’d feel the difference is in his wallet.

Second, I have enough experience to believe I know what Extreme Flight are doing with their recommendations for 300oz-in servos. I suspect they’re providing servo-guidance to pilots who are (or hope to become) the 2nd coming of a Jason Dusia class of pilot. After all, that’s a large part of the appeal of the model.

I’ve also been around long enough to remember back when Yamaha’s, ‘Different strokes, for different folks!’, commercial originally aired (I’m not old, I’m well ‘seasoned’). Point being, with a fair bit of experience, I believe I can help suss out what’s right for you.

And ultimately, whether I concur with EF that you need servos going for $100, it’s also possible servos costing less, maybe $90, $80, $70, $60, or $50 will suit you just fine. So let’s try figuring it out by because one thing is certain; there’s no one right answer for everyone because we’re all different!

Finally, to the third point, his lacking familiarity with the two servos they recommend. So because we’re asked about competing servos with some regularity, there’s a reasonable chance a side-by-side comparison exists within matchUP (in EDU). Always look there first!

In this instance, there’s a guide for ‘both’ recommended servos.

• Theta THM989 vs DS405BLHV
• Savox SV1261MG vs DS355CLHV

Disclosure

First, we offer six mini-class servos. This includes ones offering considerably less power than their recommendations, to a couple, which are significantly more powerful. E.g. our DS405, at 405oz-in is about 25% more powerful. Point being, in what follows it’s not me speaking out of both sides of my mouth just because we don’t have servos within the range they recommend, capisci?

Second, we have a keen appreciation of the fact customers for this class of model come in all types. Meaning you all have differing skills, desires, and budget. And it’s ‘this’ that actually guides the process.

But ultimately? It’s your decision to do what’s best for you!

Third, it’s our position – in flight – there’s no real difference between the 277oz-in and the 319oz-in servos they recommend. Sure, those who engage in mental masturbation will argue there is, but it’s our opinion we can measure these differences in the lab, but that you’re so good you can feel it? No offense to your skills, but that’s bullshit.

Ultimately, which is the best servo for the Turbo Raven? It’s an answer filled with nuance. And our opinion anyone tells you different, e.g. that they know what’s best for ‘you’ . . . well, they’re full of it!

Recapping, the answer for which servo is best for Extreme Flight’s 69in Turbo Raven is, it depends! On what? On you. And it absolutely does not matter what some other pilot likes.

Anyway, don’t fret, I’m not dropping this pearl of wisdom on you without a bit of forthcoming help, patience, we’ll get there.

I’ll begin by noting the fellow who wrote starting us off on this missive has been happy flying our DS160CLHV servos. Not in just one but within several 60in models (said as much).

And maybe just as many have been flying the snot out of the DS160 servo within the 69in Turbo Raven, also!

Thus, the DS160CLHV has become a favorite of many pilots for very good reasons including, it’s;

• strong
• fast
• centers well
• cheap

. . . and these are pretty much the 4 best servo-qualities in the world for any pilot, are we agreed? Yet this is half the torque of one of the recommended servos.

And to be blunt, if this were false, the forums would be lit up with complaints. They’re not, ergo what I’m saying is true. So as a practical matter, the DS160 works very well in 60″ class 3D models up to and including the larger 69″ TR (Turbo Raven). Fact.

But are they to your tastes? Let’s try and find out.

Is it enough torque

Since there’s always a ‘but’, then if there’s been a knock against the DS160 in bigger models like Turbo Raven (or similar 6S models sporting longer wingspans), the above should dispel the notion.

However, bear in mind in addition to the 69in Turbo Raven, the folks at Extreme Flight also offer the 84in Turbo Bushmaster. Plus their RC Skywing line up of 67in models, e.g Laser, Extra NG, and Edge 540 (as well as any others who may crash the party, in future). So the same question applies to all of these.

And recapping, the ‘concern’ is entirely due to the longer wingspan making it a bigger model and thus, needing more servo for aggressive pilots. Will this matter to you?

Dumbbell effect

Did you know a model with 69in wingspan require more torque to effect violent rolling maneuvers with the same authority as 60in models? True because of, a) the greater moment due to increased mass of the longer wing structure, and b) the distance of the force generated by the aileron being further from the CG (resulting in a slower roll).

So because an aircraft always tumbles better due to a reduced moment (dumbbell effect), throwing a more powerful servo at the problem helps because it allows you to shove the control surface out and into the breeze with greater authority thus generating the force more quickly (and with more throw, increased force, too).

Remember, all we’re doing is converting kinetic energy into forces to allow maneuvering around the CG. This isn’t rocket science, it’s physics.

So the business of moments neatly explains why you can wind up a 48in XA-model like a 40% can’t ‘ever’ approach. Same holds for a 69in Turbo Raven because a 48in Edge winds up harder than it, too!

Note; the Bushmaster, despite spanning 84in, has it easier because it has flaps, which can be coupled with ailerons to add to the forces causing the roll, but nothing else in the range has flaps.

And Extreme Flight know this is an issue with violent XA maneuvers like rifle rolls, wall, crankshaft with 67 and 69in models, so in order to get ahead of it, they pair them with 277 and 319oz-in servos. Smart. We’re not arguing against such powerful servos, because this is certainly appropriate for certain customers (aggressive pilots).

But what one pilot finds inadequate, another finds perfect. I’m basically arguing against the old joke that . . . all cats are gray at night. Or put another way, just because some need +300oz-in servos doesn’t mean everybody does!

So to the question, can these models be a bit too much aircraft for our DS110 and DS160 servos when trying to perform aggressive maneuvers? Honestly? Yes! Are they inadequate for you? Depends.

By the way, have you puzzled out what ProModeler part numbers actually mean? There’s no need for Cliff Notes to suss this code out;

Background

Just as Porsche undertake refresh cycles such that a 911 looks the same as one from two years ago, but if you go to interchange parts, some are different, we do the same. Our model numbers don’t change for the same reason a 911 has remained the 911 since 1963.

Point being, as part of our refresh cycle, back in 2023 we set about updating our CLS-mini and standard hybrid (DLS and BLS0) servos. How? By upgrading them with stronger stainless steel gears.

At the same time, we beefed up the upper case by adding a few grams of material surrounding the output shaft bearing (to reinforce where the bearing seats). Unfortunately, this meant you can’t retrofit the stainless gears into previous iterations.

While this can’t be helped, brownie points for us because at a time when others are busy raising prices, we’ve held the line. So you get an even better servo, for the same great price!

And as it regarded the CLS-minis, this before-and-after photo (from all-metal gears to stainless steel) shows what you’re getting. And FYI, the yield strength of stainless is a hell of a lot higher than brass!

Your benefit of having a stainless steel gear train is your servo’s ability to resist wear (plus durability in a crash) just went through the roof. And while it’s subtle, look again at the above photo.

The previous iteration used a plated-steel output gear, can you see the slight difference in the sheen between it and the stainless? Once you do, you can’t unsee the difference. Means you will forevermore be able to differentiate between nickle or chrome plate and stainless!

And note, the new gears aren’t just better compared to our previous iteration, they’re a much better setup for you compared to any competitors who aren’t using stainless steel gears, also. This is because stainless is tougher, and more durable (and much more so than titanium, or aluminum gears with a coating) and because of this, stainless gives your servos a much, much longer service life.

What’s more, one of our purposes in fitting stronger gears to the CLS-series is it ‘also’ let us offer a stronger servo within the frame. It’s why the DS210CLHV came about. So now instead of just the two models in the CLS-lineup (DS110 and DS160), we now have three!

They’re lightweight, too (presuming weight matters to you). But another benefit for DS110 and DS160 owners is the gear in them being train designed for the DS210 means these servos will easily handle much greater loads than before (think crash damage). Why? It’s because the stainless can withstand a higher pressure loading!

So win-win if low weight and durability are important factors for you.

Gear ratios and tooth profile

Did you know gears work by sliding? Fact! The involute surfaces slide against each other. And this is important, the gear tooth is the end of a lever where the fulcrum is placed at the gear’s center of rotation!

Means bigger diameter gears effectively have longer levers, think shovel with longer handle making it easier to dig! You digging it?

Here’s a tip; clean and grease the gears after the first 10 hours of operation, and every 50 hours, thereafter. That’s all the maintenance.

Anyway, gears are basically just an endless set of levers!

Remember Archimedes, and what he said? Give me a firm place to stand and a long enough lever, and I can move the world!

So the way it works is the longer the lever, the more force you can exert. With gears, the higher the ratio, the longer the effective lever.

On not being that idiot

This brings up a point about why we instruct folks not to grab the output shaft and rotate the servo motor (zinging it back and forth).

A gear ratio of 290:1 means if the output shaft makes one revolution, the motor has made 290 revolutions. Same going backwards, but in fact, gears generally work in ratios going forward, from smaller to larger same as the shovel handle is 5-6 longer the the length of the head doing the work. So gears drive other gears in tooth counts ranging from 1:3 to 1:6.

Point being, getting to 290:1 means using several compound gears driving one another. We refer to the upper section of a servo as the transmission because that’s what it is as surely as a transmission is used for a truck! Same with your servo!

It multiplies the torque of a very weak motor to produce useful work.

Anyway, when you look at the individual gears, they’re all within a range (for each set) of 1:3-1:6. Point being, someone forcing the gear train backwards (to spin the motor) generates a force 3-6X greater than that for which the tooth-profile is designed.

This risks breaking something because the teeth on the gears are not made to withstand the force of 1-revolution of the output shaft turning the motor 290 times. Much less repeatedly back and forth!

Speaking of which, it’s even worse when the idiot zings the gear train back and forth rapidly because he’s starting and stopping the motor over and over. Why its this bad? It’s because he’s forcing the gear shafts (upon which the gears rotate) to jam up against the material into which they’re embedded (usually plastic or unreinforced alloy).

But it’s exactly this kind of damage, which an idiot is doing to your servo if you hand it off to him with a servo arm attached. Heads up.

Meanwhile, it’s hard to see, but if you look closely, the center gearshaft within the black case leans slightly toward the smaller shaft due to case wear. The round bore in the plastic case is now slightly oval shaped. Won’t heal, will only get worse over time.

Note: in the above photo, the shafts and bearings are the same diameter, the black ones looking larger are an artifact of photography due to the black case being neared the lens.

Anyway, the reason the case wears this way is because the shafts, being made of steel, are MUCH harder than the case material (true whether plastic or alloy). So with ever stronger servos, the shafts can transfer much more force than the case material can withstand. And thus over time, permanently deform the material.

Recapping, the case is deformed by the hard steel shaft and plastic (from the Greek for plastikos, or flowing), and it never goes back to the original shape. Worse, it only takes a few moments of an idiot mishandling your servo for a brand new servo to have bores resembling a servo with a year of hard use!

And this is true for Hitec, Savox, Spektrum, Futaba, or any servo with an unreinforced plastic case . . . but not ProModeler because we reinforce 100% of our cases (plastic and aluminum, both).

On inadvertently damaging gear shaft bores

So with our servo cases, because we reinforce them (above photo showing bronze bushings insert molded within the plastic), then the bores for the shafts won’t give under the pressure of the steel shaft (not even slightly). However, now this means an idiot’s more apt to actually damage the ‘teeth’ of the gears themselves.

Like, look at how tiny some of the teeth are! And if your eyes are really good, note the four tiny spot welds used to secure the gears after being pressed together!

So we even reinforce the joint. Find that on hobby grade gear trains!

Anyway, what happens with a ProModeler servo, which has reinforced bores, then instead of wallowing out the plastic boreholes, then the tiny gear’s teeth may bend (ever so slightly). Thing is, and unlike our bodies which heal themselves, once the servo’s gears are damaged, same as with damaged bores, it results in a wear pattern leading to premature gear failure. Means they’re done and won’t ever be right again. Permanent damage – sigh.

And it’s all because he’s unknowingly damaged it. Worse, because it takes time for the wear pattern to manifest, you won’t realize it either.

Bottom line? Never give an idiot a servo with a servo arm attached because he’ll zing it back and forth like a 12 y/o upon discovering whipping his pee-pee feels good. And don’t ‘you’ be that dumb ass to whom someone hands a servo with a servo arm attached!

Me? I just wonder what in Hell they think they’re doing by zinging the servo arm back and forth . . . feeling the servo’s ‘compression’.

Soft start

Note; I am ‘not’ saying you can’t gently move an elevator into position if it got bumped. Just do it slowly and gently and it’ll be fine.

However, you may be interested in learning every one of our servos have soft start. Yup, every ProModeler servo – whether it’s a $30 model like a DS90 – or one costing a heck of a lot more has the soft start feature.

Soft start means when you put power to the avionics bus, if the servo isn’t centered, then it slowly moves to the center position. Does it slowly versus banging to center like old servo designs.

And yes, the imports are beginning to copy us. You may even notice they update their part number slightly ‘and’ this also presents an excuse to hike their price (none of my business, yours). In fact, if you take note, they make a big deal about soft start (while we don’t even mention it).

Reason for this? It’s because our view is this should be a benefit you get from ‘all’ servos. Like a mark of quality. As to how you benefit? It’s a lot easier on the airframe (think hinges). Especially ones with huge control surfaces as speedy servos can break glue joints. Fact.

Moving on, let’s now delve into the actual gear construction.

On bulls and pinions

Another gear fact . . . pinions gears (the smaller gear) efficiently work against bulls gears (the larger ones) at a ratio of about 1:3 to 1:6. This means 1-tooth moving against 3-6 teeth.

Note, another common bit of terminology for bull-gear is spur-gear, ring-gear, or if you grew up on a farm around tractors, master-gear, instead . . . but these all mean the same thing.

Note; if you want to learn more about gears, and because we don’t shy away from things when they go wrong, you may enjoy reading this brief article on when gears need repairing.

• On rebuilding damaged DS505s

Note; while this article specifically features the DS505BLHV it’s a superb primer on gear construction and repair. And not just for our servos but for pretty much all model airplane servos on the planet!

Gear size as it impacts your decision

So now let’s touch on gear size because as you might imagine, the larger the gear, the stronger. This is important and part of why I suspect the competing manufacturers a) don’t tell you squat about ratio, b) not much about materials, and c) never, ever show you the inside of their servos.

If they did folks would realize before they fork over the dough what it is they’re buying. And without pictures for reference, rubes are more easily duped by anonymous keyboard experts yapping away on forums and Facebook about such and such a servo being excellent.

Me? I’m an (honorary) citizen of Missouri – aka, the Show Me state!

On when a picture is worth 1000 words

So because a picture is worth 1000 words, here’s a photo of one of the servos I’m going to recommend to you for this model against one, which the folks at Extreme Flight recommend.

The relationship between torque and speed

So in keeping with ProModeler’s reputation for engineering prowess, we reveal technical details our competitors keep secret. Why? Simple, it’s our belief an informed consumer is a better consumer!

Put another way, as the old saw goes, knowledge is power! Anyway, turns out there’s a relationship between torque and speed. And as this graphic explains – more speed comes at the expense of torque and vice-versa. Sole exception is when altering motors and/or ratios.

Gear material vs strength/durability

Another consideration beyond ratio is gear material, which is also disclosed within ProModeler specs (and which we give you for each and every servo).

Usual details within the specs are torque and speed (about all the hobby servos tell you), but we even do this for 5 different voltages (and we’ll get to this a bit later).

For now, eyeball where to find ratio, gear composition, bearing info, plus info for seals, mechanical limits, etc. (for any ProModeler servo).

Good luck finding similar detail for hobby-grade alternatives.

Anyway, offering up a stronger CLS-series mini servo has always been something on my mind. Couldn’t do it with the brass/steel gears, but because I could with stainless, we created the DS210.

More torque does benefit certain owners of the Turbo Raven. Thus, whenever a customer calls to speak with me about a TR-servo, this model being bigger means I usually try and put them on the DS210CLHV ‘if’ they mention flying pretty hard (or if they’re better heeled, a DS205BLHV, instead). Otherwise, I guide to the DS160.

So I’ve now brought up the DS205BLHV. Like the CLS-series, the 205oz-in is also a mini servo, but it’s one that transits in a lighting fast 0.052sec/60°. This is in the league of a DS110 (a servo capable of operating as a helicopter tail rotor servo because it’s so fast).

Anyway, because some customers can tell the difference in speed (especially accomplished low-and-slow pilots) then for this size model, I’ll usually mention the speed benefit of a DS205 vs DS210.

However, many customers resist this suggestion. And probably for two reasons. 1st, because it costs more than a DS210, but 2nd, it’s because (in my opinion) EF actually recommend a +300oz-in servo and once they see the price of the DS205, it’s a hop skip and a jump to considering the +300oz-in servo. Still doesn’t mean they need +300, now they just may want them. And that’s OK since it’s a hobby.

So we offer +300oz-in (and +400oz-in), also and yes, they cost more money than the DS205. But let’s touch on the DS205, first because it and the DS405 are sister servos (identical build/construction differing only in motor).

Point being, in the earlier photo showing two gear trains side-by-side of DS405BLHV vs. Theta THM989. But because the DS205 looks exactly the same as the DS405, then the same photo could be used to showcase the THM989 vs DS205 since only the motor changes.

Means the big ass gears inside the DS205 are much larger than those in the Extreme Flight recommended Theta THM989. Means they operate at lower pressure loading, and this makes them more durable in a crash, too. Does any of this matter? Dunno. Here’s a better close up.

For that matter, the gears in the CLS-series minis (DS110/160/210) are significantly larger than those of the Theta THM989, also. We’ll prove it by measuring both using a precision tool called a micrometer.

And note, if you’d like to discover how well the Theta THM989 compares to the ProModeler DS405BLHV, then review this matchUP article. And remember, the DS205 gear train is the exact same.

Just click this photo and it opens the article in another browser tab!

On gear thickness vs pressure loading

So this next photo is of the Theta THM989 output gear. It’s being measured with a precision Starrett micrometer. And as you can see, it’s 0.080 in thick.

Next we’ll show you a CLS series output gear so you may see for yourself how it compares to the thickness of a Theta THM989 output gear.

And as a point of reference, the 989 is rated at 319oz-in, so the above gear is being used in a servo making +50% more torque than the DS210, the strongest CLS-series. But it being considerably thinner also has implications for durability. This, because the pressure loading (measured in psi) is a lot higher.

Talking about greater gear wear at the exact same servo output. And this isn’t just an opinion . . . it’s once again because of physics!

Anyway, in this next photo, eyeball the output gear of both the ProModeler DS210CLHV on the left juxtaposed with Theta THM989.

Your money, and either bald facts like the thickness of the gears, which are staring you in the face, count or they’re unimportant. One thing is for sure, someone on Facebook is eager to tell you their servo is best with nothing it back it up.

CLS-series output gear being more beefy at 0.2125in vs 0.080in means a reasonable man may infer it offers you a MUCH greater working life (and is a Hell of a lot stronger in a crash).

Next, before switching focus to another +200oz-in servo, a DS205, allow me to circle back briefly to the DS110 because it makes perfect sense for some.

DS110CLHV

Sometimes pilots ask about using our DS110CLHV, instead of the DS160 or DS210. Why? Principally more to do with speed than cost because it’s very, very fast (especially good if you like gyros).

Their rationale (and a very strong one at that), is they observe the Hitec HS-7245MH (89oz-in at 0.11sec/60° servo) being flown in 60in models. Since they like low and slow maneuvers, where less torque is necessary, then add to the Hitec’s good reputation and the servo appeals.

Add to this, Extreme Flight offer the Savox SV1250MGP for 60in models and it’s outputting 111oz-in @ 0.095sec/60°. Both compare torque-wise to a ProModeler DS110 (110oz-in @ 0.035sec/60°).

There’s a matchUP for both versus the DS110CLV if you’re curious;

• matchUP: Hitec HS-7245MG vs ProModeler DS110CLHV
• matchUP: Savox SV1250MGP vs ProModeler DS110CLHV

. . . but while all three have similar torque, ours is built significantly better ‘and’ we gobble them up in the speed department. Plus, importantly, we offer it for less money. Better for less? Yee-haw!

TR servo recommendations

Let’s look to the servos EF’s recommend to see what we can learn;

• Theta THM989 – 319oz-in @ 0.07sec/60° – street price $90
• Savox SV1261MG – 277oz-in @ 0.09sec/60° – Amazon price $93

Note; Savox has been updating to soft start and increasing prices while changing model part designations from MG to MGP. I’m seeing it out of stock in many places meaning this is current as of 9/1/2024, but if you notice updates, let me know and I’ll revise this information).

To reiterate, I try to guide folks off our DS110CLHV because I don’t feel a Century-class servo is enough for a TR (although we *do* have some pilots flying the TR with our DS110CLHV, and they’re happy). Added to which, I suspect the owner is more likely (in my opinion) to whinge about blowback if they try harder maneuvers with a DS110 equipped TR. So that’s a second reason not to guide folks to it.

So cutting to the chase, let me tell you who killed Cock Robin. ProModeler offer six servos that will fit the Extreme Flight Turbo Raven air frame;

• DS110CLHV – 110oz-in @ 0.035sec/60° – $49.99 each
• DS160CLHV – 160oz-in @ 0.064sec/60° – $59.99 each
• DS210CLHV – 210oz-in @ 0.061sec/60° – $69.99 each
• DS205BLHV – 205oz-in @ 0.052sec/60° – $79.99 each
• DS355CLHV – 355oz-in @ 0.077sec/60° – $89.99 each
• DS405BLHV – 405oz-in @ 0.050sec/60° – $99.99 each

The DS160 is probably ideal for 60% of you. The DS210 garners another 20%, the DS205 10%, and this leaves the DS355 and DS405 fighting over the top pilots. More details below.

Recapping; I make it a practice to mostly guide customers toward our lovely steel-gear equipped DS160CLHV (or DS210CLHV if they fly reasonably hard), or the brushless motor equipped DS205BLHV if they fly hard-ish ‘and’ favor gyros because the DS205 is so fast.

But if they so much as utter the words crankshaft, rifle roll, or wall then we’re going to have a conversation regarding DS355 and DS405. Then for many, the issue becomes cost.

Is what it is – but – as a friend once pithily observed . . .

‘Spending nearly as much for servos as for the airframe is stupid until you consider it won’t fly worth a shit if you don’t pony up!’

. . . and he makes a valid point, but I digress.

So we’ve largely touched on DS110, DS160, and DS210. You know how they’re built and thus, next, let’s touch further on our 205oz-in.

DS205BLHV

This is a nice step up for an added tenner over the DS210 because you get a brushless motor (lasts 5X longer) plus an all-alloy case (cools better), and at $80, while we’re getting up there price-wise, it’s less than the $90-100 which are how much the THM989 and SV1261MG plus DS355 and DS405 command.

So unless you fly stupid hard, then the DS205BLHV is the Cadillac of our line up for nearly all XA-pilots flying the Turbo Raven.

Recapping again, and to be honest, the DS160 is enough servo for all but the most brutal of pilots. In fact, for a lot of pilots, the DS110 is perfectly OK also because (and this is important), a lot of folks love how the Turbo Raven model looks and flies – but – aren’t really into hard core 3D and love using gyros like the Aura8 where the stupidly fast DS110 works great!

But while it’s our opinion, the DS160 is GREAT for a 60″ airframe, it leaves a bit to be desired with a 69″ wingspan model like the Turbo Raven. So we steer all but the ones who tell us they’re into IMAC to the similarly constructed DS210CLHV.

And those who want speed and power both? Those we guide to DS205BLHV, instead – unless – they’re 3D monsters, in which case we direct them to either DS355CLHV or DS405BLHV. And once again, gyro use helps make the determination (I’ve said it before but gyros love speedy servos).

So if +300 is in your future, and you favor gyros, then being a lot faster than DS355 leaves the DS405 as our very best for you,

Confused? Don’t be! While the accomplished pilot performing XA maneuvers is better off with a +200oz-in servo, the DS160CLHV threads a needle of price performance that leaves it the perfect servo for probably 60% of pilots.

• So the D160 is my overall recommendation for the Turbo Raven.

We mostly guide folks to the DS210 servo if they fly harder. But for those who tell us they mostly fly IMAC, we once again try helping them save a few bucks by guiding them back toward the DS160.

This includes folks for whom the 1979 FAI schedule is what they love.

And while many agree, some ignore our guidance. This next fellow disagreed. For him, the best servo was our DS205BLHV because he valued the speed (0.052sec/60°) versus the 0.08sec/60° of the DS210CLHV (and slightly slower than the 0.07sec/60° of the THM989), and both significantly faster than the 0.13sec/60° of the MKS HV747.

Note: it may be worth considering the Savox SV1260MG if speed is important because while it makes 22% less torque than the DS205, it nevertheless plays in the same league speed-wise. Again, not as well built in our opinion, but maybe you need to see that for yourself to make that determination and we make this easy with a matchUP.

The matchUP for SV1260MG vs DS205BLHV has similar CU-photos.

Note: if you’re leaning toward DS205BLHV, then the very high quality MKS 747 (208oz-in @ 01.3sec/60°), along with the Theta THM988 (208oz-in @ 0.07sec/60°) also offer solid competition as all three effectively offer the same level of torque.

Anyway, while the DS205 smokes both in the speed department (and is better built than either, in our opinion), you may wish to review these respective matchUP articles for yourself rather than take our word for. Especially if you’re curious to see insides these servos.

• matchUP: Savox SV1260MG vs DS205BLHV
• matchUP: Savox SV1260MG vs DS210CLHV
• matchUP: Theta THM988 vs DS205BLHV
• matchUP: MKS HV747 vs DS205BLHV

Anyway, turns out speed is a really, really BIG deal for the more accomplished XA-pilots. An example of which is Marty, below, and to whom we owe a debt of gratitude for many of the flight photos within this article.

He’s been rather pleased with DS205BLHV within his Turbo Raven.

And yet, some guys simply need the +300oz-in servos . . . the ones flying really hard-XA.

So how do we define ‘hard’ 3D or XA?

It’s like this; if you are performing Rifle Rolls (wide open throttle and full aileron deflection), a maneuver which is – really – hard on aileron servos (and which not all XA-pilots can pull off), then you need more than the DS205 offers.

Ditto if your repertoire include the violent Crankshaft (rough on everything), and Wall maneuvers (especially hard on elevator servos because it presents the entire bottom of the airplane to the forces of the wind).

I’m bouncing all these examples off you trying to help you figure out where you slot in because unlike EF, who specialize in models, we offer six servos since we specialize in ‘servos’, instead. We’re more attuned to the differences in a customer’s needs servo-wise. The point of all this is helping you find your happy place before forking over the dough for your next set of servos!

And look, I don’t know you, and have never seen you fly so I can’t judge based on what you say on the phone – only you can make this determination. But trust me, if you perform the above maneuvers, then you really want more than our brushless all-alloy DS205 offers.

Honestly, if you’re doing this kind of stuff, then you stand apart from most 3D pilots and are in a select group of what I call hard XA-pilots (XA, of course, standing for Extreme Aerobatics). You are whom EF is aiming for with the Theta THM989 and Savox SV1261MG servos.

Saying if you fit the group of pilots to whom EF are marketing their 277oz-in and 319oz-in minis, then this immediately makes you a candidate for DS355CLHV and DS405BLHV – but only you know!

If you’re considering +300oz-in servos because you fly harder than most, then there are aspects of construction you simply must pay more attention to, also. For example . . .

Cooling

Cooling is a big deal with ProModeler. And with both the CLS and BLS-series, the motor is pressed into the CNC-machined aluminum case. This, expressly so it does double duty because better contact ensures better heat transfer. Again, physics.

So because of direct contact, the motor sheds excess heat better. Important since heat is the enemy of electronics. So next, how do you make the center case work better in terms of cooling?

Simple,you machine it with cooling fins. These help the case work better for the very same reason air cooled engines have fins instead of smooth cylinders. More surface area!

So direct contact plus cooling fins being important toward better shedding heat, they’re what ProModeler gives you versus what you get with hobby-grade alternatives . . . smooth sides.

So remember, always dig deeply into details, and caveat emptor!

So what’s next? Well, since Extreme flight deem it worthy of offering the Theta THM989 (319oz-in @ 0.07sec/60°) for $90 for this much money you can buy a DS355CLHV, instead. Is it better? We think it is!

DS355CLHV

Ours at 355oz-in @ 0.077sec/60° is 11% more powerful and both lighter and built significantly better. Yes, this last is our opinion but decide for yourself by reviewing this;

• matchUP: Theta THM989 vs ProModeler DS355CLHV

. . . following which, you may then agree, also!

Anyway, major improvements of the DS355 to the Theta THM989 (to ensure the servo will actually live longer when making these levels of torque), include similar mechanical reinforcements like thicker gears, and bronze bushings reinforcing the case bores, plus we reinforce the PCB with potting compound, and we machine the case with cooling fins – sensing a pattern?

Basically, we’re using every trick we can think of to help the servo endure the loads and vibrations it’ll face in its lifetime regardless of its price class.

Birdwalk – the oh shit moment

Let me share a brief story. A pal was shooting elevators to landings. So as you can imagine, these require an extremely accurate and perfectly timed application of power and transition to flare before touchdown. If everything works, it’s a fantastic looking maneuver, but if you miss? Well, the less said the better as it can be ugly.

Minor point being, he missed one, but just barely. I saw it and asked what he was doing when he went for another attempt as I’d expected him to immediately come in for landing because I saw a bit of the expensive carbon fiber prop shatter off. And in this instance (although neither of us knew it, yet) it had bent the motor shaft.

But, no, he’d already firewalled the motor for another attempt (so the bent shaft wasn’t discovered until ‘after’ landing). Anyway, he flew three more of these elevator landings (resembling nothing so much as a heli pilot shooting autos).

So when we discovered the bent shaft, he blanched as he realized the amount of vibration the air frame endured. This, with a so called vibration-free electric powered model airplane! Major point? As an engineer I design for the ‘oh shit’ moment. And vibration is very hard on electronics.

Now back to reinforcing, this time the bores within the case.

So beyond better cooling, once you get to the +300oz-in range of output with a mini servo, they’re making enough torque to be pounding the steel gear shafts pretty hard against aluminum into which they embed the shafts within the case (remember, the reason for anchoring the shafts is so they DON’T move).

Anyway, the shafts in minis are smaller in diameter than those in a standard servo. Means when both are making the same 300oz-in, then because the shaft diameter is smaller, the psi acting on the alloy case is higher. Speaking apples-to-apples, saying when both the standard class and the mini class are outputting 300oz-in it’s worse for the mini case due to the smaller diameter shafts. Again, physics.

This stands to reason because the smaller shaft presents less area. So under these conditions, the bores of a mini are harder pressed to stay perfectly round for a long time ‘unless’ they’re reinforced.

Reason this matters is because once the bore goes egg shaped, then the tolerance of the gear mesh goes to Hell (remember, the anchor point determines mesh so if the hole isn’t perfect, the position isn’t either). Means what happens next is the gears begin to wear like crazy. Repair means not just a set of gears but a case, also. Fact!

So we use the largest diameter shaft we can, ‘and’ we reinforce the soft aluminum with bronze bushings – others don’t. Why not? Probably because it’s expensive to do this.

In this photo, instead of showing you the upper case, we show you a steel bushing used to reinforce the lower case of the DS405. Yet the shaft adjacent to the output gear is the internal shaft most heavily loaded!

Point being, none of these things, like milling cooling fins into our servo cases, or reinforcing the bores are done for the heck of it. Everything is being done to help the servo with doing the job as well as it can be done!

Heads up.

So with these ProModeler servos (all minis), you get all-steel gears. These are way more durable than whatever our competitors are using. For example, with the HV747, they like titanium.

So an MKS HV747 277oz-in @ 0.13sec/60° is performing at a high specific output level (and once again, no cooling fins). Against the DS355 its output is down 28% (which is getting noticeable), and theirs is down 57% speed-wise, too (which for sure is noticeable) And titanium is not the best gear material in our opinion because it’s comparatively soft (even though it’s hot in marketing and much akin to carbon fiber for making rubes reflexively reach for their wallets).

Titanium as gear material

Few realize Ti is actually pretty soft compared to steel. And while it was great for the wing skins of the SR-71 Blackbird, where it became famous in the 1960s, the material actually kind of sucks for gears. And you don’t need to be an engineer to realize this, you just need a brain. Proof?

Proof is found amongst the money-is-no-object teams racing in F1 and NASCAR. There, because they use transmissions with steel gears instead of titanium. Stands to reason if in the richest sport on Earth titanium gears being lighter than steel would be used if they were better because cost doesn’t matter to those folks. They don’t ergo it’s not better for gears. So why are some using Ti for gears?

Probably because the marketing types know that titanium (along with carbon fiber) are words that kick mental masturbation into high gear. Some guys nearly salivate at these word because they don’t know any better so this stands as a proxy for good stuff. Note; the reason titanium isn’t so good for gears is because it’s brittle, soft, and prone to fracture. A problem in aviation except in the military where optimal trumps cost because the mission demands it.

And note; the 355oz-in output by our DS355CLHV is enough to fly some significantly larger models, too. For example, this thoughtful fellow uses them within his Extreme Flight 85in Extra. This adds an element of versatility to your purchase if an ultra-lightweight appeals.

So who should pony up for our DS405BLHV servos? Maybe nobody. Or maybe those who are out there actually inventing new maneuvers. Have you worked on a maneuver nobody’s seen? Then you qualify.

DS405BLHV

Why? Well, if you fly really hard, then the +400oz-in being output by the DS405BLHV absolutely WILL shove that aileron out into the breeze with the authority a 277oz-in or 319oz-in (or even our own 355oz-in) can’t. 405oz-in is a lot more than other minis can muster.

Is this reason enough? Dunno, your call but it’s not much more money than is being asked for some import servos. Read up.

• matchUP: Theta THM989 vs DS405BLHV

That, and when the DS405BLHV is working, because it’s so very, very powerful, it’ll be loafing compared to more heavily stressed servos. Important if you subscribe to the idea of machine design that values overkill (the DS405BLHV is the very definition of overkill).

A few last thoughts before wrapping this up . . . what ‘really’ differentiates a ProModeler servo from the competitors? Meaning, what makes the CLS-series better is how they’re totally unlike hobby-grade servos. Basically, they’re built to meet military standards (and subjected to these tests).

In part, this is due to the requirements of our primary customer. However, because we’re modelers and have knocked a servo off a workbench, experienced crashes, and know a thing or two about vibration (plus how a summer afternoon pop-up rain shower may drench a model before landing), it means these tests are important for civilian users (modelers).

Point being, if you’re looking at another servo, one which offers similar performance and pricing – but – hasn’t been tested to military standards, then servos meeting MIL-STDS are always better (even if you don’t need the benefit their enhanced durability delivers right now).

However, beyond making servos expressly designed to survive the abuse encountered in the real world, there are important ownership considerations worth mentioning with a ProModeler CL-series servo.

For example, many are surprised to learn there are bronze bushings within the polymer case. These, for reinforcing where the steel gear shaft fit – hard points in essence. Makes for a twofer, e.g. the benefit of lighter weight with the durability of an alloy case!

Bottom line? If you want to shake things up at your field, show up with a Turbo Raven equipped with DS405 minis and leave ’em in awe!

Recap of benefits

Do you consider your servos to represent an investment? If so, then ProModeler servos are worth your consideration not just because they outperform the others, but because they’re built to last longer.

And the thrifty amongst us especially recognize what receiving good value means in addition to receiving top level performance. Honestly, in this regard, it’s well recognized your ProModeler servos really deliver, and here’s why.

First, many modelers immediately notice the cooling fins machined into the case. All else being equal, cooler components last longer, right? Every ProModeler servo is built on a porcupine case like this.

Second, there’s the matter of the 13 o-rings which seal the case of your CLS-servo. They’re between individual case components, and at the output spline shaft, and beneath the heads of the ten grade 12.9 Allen head screws (used to secure the three servos in the CL-series together). And these thread into aluminum instead of plastic!

Third, there’s how we protect the PCB from vibration with a conformal coating (instead of a cheapo square of foam rubber). Also referred to as potting compound in the civilian world, we just call it monkey-snot. Why? It’s because it’s such a sticky smelly mess to apply. But totally worth it!

So why do we bother applying monkey snot? Simple, it’s because once applied to the PCB, it oozes between components and sets. This is the secret sauce behind our servos thriving in harsh high-vibration environments. Bottom line? This is an aerospace-grade technique, and one which also help makes ProModeler servos more valuable to you by prolonging service life.

After all, while they’re destined for an electric model right now, who is to say – perhaps a few years from now – you don’t choose to race high vibration Formula 1 models, or perhaps are attracted to helicopters? Thus, instead of focusing on just one thing, your ProModeler servos are versatile enough for wherever your heart may some day lead you.

So beyond performance, ProModeler is about delivering good value!

Servo arms

Last thing; you’re going to need servo arms and compared to east Asian alternatives, let me mention the PDRS32-25T. Instead of being flat, this beauty has an H-beam profile for stiffness. We use 7075-T6 aluminum for significantly greater strength. And compared to arms with 3X mounting positions, it has 5 on 2.5mm centers for finer adjustment when setting up your servos.

Basically, for smooth IMAC setups, you want the closest to center with enough ATV to get the rolling rate you desire, and for XA, usually the furthest mount position, and maximizing ATV . . . all you can get!

Especially nice about the PDRS32-25T (a 1-1/4″ arm) is you also get a clamp mechanism to eliminate backslash. Good quality arms all do this, so not our invention. Anyway, the conventional M3 bolt is for fixing it axially to the output shaft, plus there’s an M2.5 machine thread bolt, which clamps the arm tightly to the spline shaft.

These two actions totally preclude the arm from working its way loose and also prevents any possibility of play between the tolerance of the broach in the arm and the tolerance for the splines as hobbed being excessive. With regard to the radial bolt snugging the two, think of this as a twofer, e.g. belt and suspenders for the arm.

The PDRS32-25T crosses over to an Extreme Flight 1-1/4″ offering (same length). We don’t do colors. However, ours is stiffer and importantly, gives you more threads of engagement for the screw.

Means you never need to add a nut on the bottom of the arm to sleep well. That, and the bolt is anchored in harder base metal (7075 vs 6061).

The matter of the number of engaged threads isn’t a matter of conjecture, they’re clearly visible in this CU of a photo (take off their website and shared as fair educational use). Note; after countersinking to deburr the hole, you can see how many threads remain (and remember, the other side of this hole is deburred as well.

So the reason for bringing this up is a flat arm similar in appearance to a plastic arm presents some problems after deburring in being thick enough to give you enough threads. Who defines enough threads? This isn’t opinion, ANSI does this.

Basically, the harder the material, the fewer threads you can get away with and instead of 6061-T6 we use 7075-T6 (the latter rivaling the yield strength of mild steels). Another factor being our arm is better at resisting flex under load due to an H-beam profile. So let’s touch on threads, material strength, and profile.

Thread engagement

For the first issue, thread engagement, allow me to offer up what the machinery handbook in our shop has to say; for the range of 1.5-2.8mm (major diameter), for 0.4mm pitch, 1-3d. For our shop, as a rule of thumb, we tap holes with enough threads to equal 2.5d but this varies from 1-3d per the ‘book’ and the reason for a range is to account for the strength of the material.

Anyway, you don’t need to be a machinist to grok needing more threads in soft stuff to help keep them form pulling out, right?

Basically, for softer materials you use more threads, and conversely, fewer in harder materials. Never in our shop fewer than 3 complete well formed threads in steel, and several more than that in softer materials. These are minimums and we don’t like working to minimums in anything we do.

This is the print for our PDRS32-25T servo horn. So with a total thickness of 6.5mm, and allowing 0.5mm for deburring both sides, this leaves 6mm of thickness for threading.

Since the major diameter is 2mm for the M2x0.4 machine thread bolt, 6mm divided by 2mm works out to 3d. So we put more threads in than are called for. This is what’s meant by being conservative.

Tensile strength

With regard to 6061-T6 versus 7075-T6, the 7075-T6 has a tensile strength nearly double that of 6061-T6 aluminum. The shear strength is also about 1.5X higher. Moreover, the tensile strength of 7075-T6 ranges from 540 to 590 MPa (78,000 to 86,000 psi), making it stronger than mild and low-carbon steels!

H-beam profile vs flat

First, I’ll readily admit to stealing the idea of an H-beam profile for handling a side-loads as experienced by servo arms. From whom? Fred Carillo, a brilliant engineer and manufacturer of racing rods for high performance engines!

Second, am I shameless in admitting to this theft? Nope, not if you hew to my vision, as once put by Newton to Hooke back in 1676 . . .

anyway, to see the PDRS32-25T in action, this next photos shows it installed in a typical Extreme Flight application with ball link hardware for the tightest most freely operating linkage.

Next, with regard to dual-horn servo control horns, if you favor pull-pull action for the rudder, then we’ll guide you to the PDRS50PP-25T instead of a tiller-type arm.

Pulley versus tiller arms

While tillers work OK, we’re opposed to using these dual horn arms even though we offer the PDRS40D-25T amongst the +50 different arms available. Dual horns are created for a different function, that of ganging servos together, not actuating cables. For that, mariners discovered millennia ago the pulley is much better.

So why a pulley? Simple, it’s because pull-pull cables won’t go as slack transiting from one extreme to the other on the non-pulling side as when using a tiller arm! Only thing to watch out for is;

• a) make sure the control horns align with the hinges, and
• b) that you’ve snugged the figure of 8, and
• c) that it’s a straight shot with no departure angle to the horns

Basically, the plane of rotation of the pulley (meaning cable as perfectly aligned with the groove of the pulley), else there’s a risk of slipping out of the groove – duh!

This last is important as it depends on the designer exercising care when laying out the servos, e.g. with an eye toward proper cable alignment. Basically, just like we learned as kids with bicycles and chains, the departure angle for the cable coming off the pulley should be as close to 0° as you can make it. enterprising modelers improve the design with either bits of wood, or 3D printers.

Note; we share these files for free!

Note; if you have time, maybe eyeball: Pro tips for improving your ARF

• there’s some more information about using a pulley, and
• the good stuff cable-wise is this 7×7 stainless on Amazon, and no,
• we don’t do affiliate links (we don’t earn a penny for guiding you).

Extensions

This model is simple extension-wise. You just need a pair of short extensions to extend the servo leads (so they reach inside the fuselage after you slide the wings onto the wing tube). EF advise 6″ while we guide you to 8″ to give a little more slack when working.

Of course, we have 6″ long extensions also, so pick your poison. A tip regarding extension part numbers is part number EX20AWG8 means;

And a useful tip when navigating our site is where the URL title bar in your browser says https://www.promodeler.com/EX20AWG8 you can replace the 8 with 24 and go to the 24″ version without menus!

Anyway, you need two more short ones plugged into the receiver to which these wing extensions mate. Again, they say 6″ we advise 8″.

Another tip; for my models, I tie a loose overhand knot in the short extension coming from the receiver for the right hand wing panel. The benefit is there are no labels needed to know which to plug in! And a useful variation are two knots for flaps, etc.

And you need one 24″ extension for the elevator servo, which is mounted beneath stab (the rudder plugs directly into the receiver).

• 4) EX20AWG8 – 8″ extensions
• 1) EX20AWG24 – 24″ extension

As I’m sure you know, gauge numbers climb for thinner wire so 26AWG (or 26ga) means the wire is thinner than 20AWG. Thinner carries less current and experiences more voltage loss. Weighs less, too but you need to be smart about this.

So presuming a DS210, know it sucks down enough current to be concerned with excessive length when it comes to extensions. How much current are we talking about? Once again, turn to the specs!

What an engineer does is he looks at the column for whatever voltage you intend on running. Let’s say you’re stupid persuaded using a BEC outputting 8.4V instead of a battery, is smart.

So in the 5th column, look at Current (stalled), which by definition is when a servo is making rated torque.

See the 3.4A? For ailerons that’s probably X2 for both servos, e.g. briefly during a rifle roll. So during the few seconds of a rifle roll, figure on drawing near 8 amps total, but through the extensions? This may be an issue worthy of adding caps even though the extensions don’t exceed 30in, which is when we as a rule recommend them.

The voltage loss can be calculated and it’s based on length and wire gauge. Like I said, the thicker the wire, the less loss. Zero is ideal.

Another thing regarding the extension we offer? We have them made with 20AWG wire (high strand count for minimal loss), super supple silicone jackets for better abrasion resistance, they’re twisted to help shield the avionics from stray EMI, and are basically the best I can get. I’m not in the extension business, servos are our focus but these along with servo arms, and batteries are conveniences.

Curious about this business of leads and voltage loss? Then review this article to learn more:

• Servo Leads & Extensions

So based on how I phrased the above, you gathered I’m not a fan of BEC circuits. You’d be right. I much prefer using a dedicated avionic power supply, aka 2S battery pack. Learn why I don’t favor BECs here:

• The case against synthetic voltage

And note, just because ‘I’ don’t like depending on BECs doesn’t mean you can’t make your own decision to proceed. The servos don’t care.

Regarding why I don’t like them? That’s simple, it’s because if the ESC goes poof, then this takes your power to the avionics with it. Now instead of a dead stick to landing, you’re a crash spectator.

This customer kindly shared his experience.

And note, I’d recommended he use a dedicated pack (as I do with everyone if I remember), but he went ahead with the BEC of the ESC. Anyway, proving how big a man he is, he subsequently wrote about experiencing a crash that destroyed his Turbo Raven because the ESC caught fire. Rare? yes, but these things happen when you’re hammering on a XA model.

Honestly? Most guys would keep their mouths shut. Not him, he (and wearing his big boy pants) reached out. he straight up shared what had happened ‘and’ gave me photos of the crispy critter, or what became of the ESC that caused his crash! Said to use them to maybe help the next guy. Consider yourself warned!

And note, it wasn’t a nameless import, but a very high quality unit.

So I mention using a battery pack to power the avionics, let’s eyeball these and see what works best for you.

Avionics power – 2S batteries

This isn’t new material for me, and I have articles you can read though to learn what I think. Me? I opt for the B2S850 for this model.

Anyway, you may find some or all of these articles useful.

• On selecting battery packs
• On the batteries John prefers using
• How to determine flight time for a 2S850 LiIon
• Regarding ignition and radio switches
• On modeling’s different chemistries
• The care and feeding of LiPo packs
• Why’s my pack got two JR-connectors?

With the last being one of the most important. Basically, remember what I said about current draw for this model being in the 7-10A range if you’re aggressive? Means making two connections between the receiver pack and the receiver is important.

Also means you need two more extensions (you’ll learn why with the switch article) so another pair of EX20AWG8 are useful. What for? Read the last article, also!

Battery recommendation – B2S850

OK, I won’t leave you hanging, eyeball this photo. Count the leads. And note, the DuPont connectors have 20AWG leads, the XT30 uses a 16AWG. All with silicone jackets – this is the good stuff.

Final thoughts

In the end, with ProModeler servos you get ones made with better component parts – every individual component is pick o’ the litter. From the alloy finned center case for better cooling, better gears, better potentiometer, as well as o-rings, bronze hardpoints, potting compound, using Allen head screws instead of el cheapo Phillips heads – everything about them is top notch.

Plus we offer you better servo arms, too! 

We’ve touched on what I feel to be the best servo for most of you, the DS160CLHV, why you may want to pony up for a stronger servo, why you may want to puny up for our best servos. We’ve discussed servo arms, extensions, and avionics battery packs. What have I left tout? Good grief, isn’t this missive long enough? Let’s leave it here!

Allow me offer a few final thoughts. The right servo for you is a reflection of yourself, your goals, your dreams, and your budget. We work hard put a better grade of servo in your hands. But nobody can make you buy them. This you decide for yourself.

Any questions? Feel free to reach out, we’re readily available;

• Telephone: 407-302-3361
• Email: info@promodeler.com

. . . and maybe together we can suss out what’s best for you!

I’ll close with this, one thing’s certain, best is a race that’s never finished. Best right now? ProModeler, but others have more marketplace buzz. Deserved? Yes, they worked hard for it. Are their servos worth your money? Not our decision, not theirs, either. This your decision, and yours alone.

Anyway, it you end trying our servos and like them, then do us the favor of taking one to a club meeting. Pass it around. Maybe even pull out a 1.5mm Allen driver and open it up – you’ve seen how they go together, there’s nothing to be afraid of. And please, show them to a pal.

But most of all, kindly grace us with a photo sharing your thoughts. What for? To put on the website, and within articles like this. Basically, for telling the next guy what you like about our servos.

We’re Jones-ing for photos like this one because your favor is priceless and can’t be bought. We know this. So do others.

Last thing

Have you enjoyed this? If you like reading and are interested in learning more, then maybe find time to review more articles like this;

• matchUP: Hitec D645MW vs DS180DLHV
• matchUP: Hitec HS-7245MH vs DS110CLHV
• matchUP: Savox SV0220MGP vs DS130DLHV
• matchUP: Savox SV2290SG vs DS845BLHV
• matchUP: Savox SV2290MG vs DS930BLHV
• matchUP: Savox SV2290MG vs DS1155BLHV
• matchUP: Savox SV1250MGP vs DS110CLHV
• matchUP: Savox SV1260MG vs DS160CLHV
• matchUP: Savox SV1261MG vs DS355CLHV
• matchUP: Futaba HPS-A703 vs DS930BLHV
• matchUP: AccuTORQ 600SG vs DS630BLHV
• matchUP: Theta THM989 vs DS405BLHV
• matchUP: Theta THM988 vs DS205BLHV
• matchUP: ProModeler vs JR DS8711
• On the batteries John prefers using
• About pots vs Hall Effect sensors
• On selecting battery packs
• Pro tips for improving your ARF
• Amazon servo vs DS505s
• Why’s my pack got two JR-connectors?
• Rip Van Winkle, on returning to RC
• How to guide a rocket using servos
• Phoenix Models 70in Strega guide
• Advantages of pull-pull via pulley
• Bret Becker: Mr. Top Gun
• Will ProModeler servos work with NiCds?
• How to determine flight time for a 2S850 LiIon
• Hangar 9 60cc Pitts S-2B servos
• Fear of loss, or how to stack the odds in your favor!
• When LiFePO4 is mistakenly charged as LiIon
• Idle thoughts regarding chargers

. . . and hundreds more. Best part? They’re all free!