67in Bellanca Decathlon guide

So the other day Bob Davis (long time customer and member of the LARKS club – Tavares, FL – AMA #1721) reached out asking for a servo recommendation. Turns out he had an oldie but goodie on his hands, a little seen classic balsa kit of the Pilot RC Bellanca Decathlon 40.

These come up occasionally on eBay, or via private sale as a modeler thins out the herd, aka his stash of kits. Thus, I’m excited to present this caseSTUDY guide despite it being of a relatively rare model airplane because at 67in, this remains a popular size to this day.

Really saying the recommended equipment list will be similar for any model in the ball park size-wise – with a similar duty – e.g. civilian high wing monoplane like J3 Cub, Citabria, or Cessna 180.

This, versus a fast flying fighter like a P-51 Mustang, or an Extra NG from Extreme Flight whose sole purpose are extreme aerobatics (XA) and because of it, has extremely large control surfaces being deflected to incredible angles to enable post stall maneuvers.

Reason I mention this is the anticipated airspeed, flight control surface area, and deflection angles of the surfaces always play a role in servo selection. An example of an XA servo selection is this guide for a different type of scale model;

• Extreme Flight 69in Turbo Raven servos

. . . one where wingspan, area, and weight are similar to the specs for this Decathlon – but – the recommended servos certainly aren’t!

Anyway, if you’re curious, this is the box art for his beautiful model.

Background info

So at about 67″ this is actually a very handy size version of the original Y. Matsumoto 1/4 scale design spanning 96 inches. However, in reducing it, the famed Japanese designer gifted the world with a model more perfectly suited for folks to live with day-in and day-out.

This, because it’s vastly easier to transport and store, as well as less costly in terms of avionics and propulsion components. True, at least in the judgement of the OK Model Co, Ltd. of Japan, who at the time owned the brand.

And also true in the eyes of perhaps the vast majority of model aircraft pilots . . . world-wide!

Scale determination

Although the plans don’t mention it, the scale of this model is 1/5.7 or 1:5.7 and if you’re curious how scale is calculated, let’s first use the original 1/4 scale Decathlon model to walk through it because we use whole numbers.

So 1/4th of the full scale aircraft’s 32′ wingspan is 8 feet (32/4=8). Or working in inches for convenience, it’s got an 8ftx12in/ft=96in span. And note, when researching the aircraft you’ll see mention of both Bellanca and American Champion, the present owner of the design. Don’t be thrown off by this, they’re basically still the same aircraft.

Circling back around, if you know the model’s wingspan, 96″ in this instance, and knowing the full scale aircraft’s wingspan is 384″ (96″x4=384″ or 32’x12in/ft=384″), then how do you suss out the scale? Simple, just divide the full scale aircraft’s wingspan by the model’s wingspan, and then take the reciprocal. This gives us the scale, which may be expressed either as a fraction or a ratio – same thing.

Putting numbers to it; 384/96=4. And as a refresher, the reciprocal of any number, is just 1 ÷ (that number). So in this instance, it’s 1÷4 (or written 1/4), or expressed in ratio as 1:4, or as 3-inches-to-the-foot.

These are all the exact same thing!

Purpose of scale calculation

So because this model has a 67-1/4 inch wingspan, doing the same math works out to 384/67.25=5.71, and the reciprocal is 1/5.7 (dropped the trailing 1 from 5.71 and rounding to 5.7). So this model is between 1/5th and 1/6th scale and closer to 1/6th.

Because of this, then once again rounding 5.7 to 6, we’ll refer to it as a 1/6th scale model (or close enough for government work). But note, there are exceptions when we’d rather work at exactly 1/5.71 instead of 1/6, which I’ll explain in a moment.

So who cares about the scale? You should! Why? Simple, it’s because this is useful knowledge when it comes to determining the size of other things related to this model. For example . . .

• pilot figure
• prop diameter
• wheel diameter
• pinked tape

. . . the last, pinked tape, is used in full-scale for reinforcing fabric at the ribs. And it adds a very nice (and highly visible) scale detail. But more on this, later.

Meanwhile, look at the eye candy comprising the beautifully detailed wing. Eyeball how this real craftsman added pinked tape to the ribs, thus adding to the illusion of reality.

Best part? He did it with virtually nil added weight!

Now that we know how to calculate it, let’s work through a few quick examples of putting knowledge of scale to work. Practical uses!

Pilot figure

At 1/5.7 scale, the 1/6th pilot will perhaps be a touch too small, depends on your judgement. Thing is, a 1/5th figure will be a tad too big. So when dealing with a model sized between commercially available scale products, it’s a situation of pick ’em!

ProTip: believe it or not, a pilot that’s a little bit too big often looks better than one too small, in the eyes of many. This is because humans come in all shapes and sizes.

Since the average American male is about 5’8″ (68 inches), then going from 1/5.7 model to a 1/6th pilot figure, about 5% difference means reducing the pilot height by nearly 4″ so a figure representing a male pilot at 5’4′ looks a bit peculiar.

Conversely, a 1/5th pilot represents a pilot about 12% larger than 5’8″ or 6’4″ tall but since we’re only showing busts, typically, this ends up looking better. But it’s your call.

Prop diameter

So what about using scale to figure out what prop size looks right? Well, consulting Dr. Google reveals 74-76″ diameter props are fairly common on the Decathlon depending on the engine selection. With the 74″ being most common with 180hp aircraft and 76″ for the 210hp versions, which consulting FAA registration online reveals are considerably more rare. Saying a 74″ prop is the more likely selection.

So for a generic Decathlon, take 74/5.71=12.96 (and 76/5.71=13.3) so regardless of the actual engine, a 13″ diameter prop will be in the ball park for this model. Saying it’ll look neither too small, nor too large, but juuust right.

But at the same time let me note this, when you’re flying the model, you make the determination of what feels right so if you decide to use a 14″ prop, instead, the extra 1/2″ in radius will pass the eye test just fine.

What about a 16″ prop? Honestly? Less believable even if there were enough ground clearance but 14″ will definitely pass.

If you’re modeling a ‘specific’ full-scale Decathlon, then you need to know exactly which prop is mounted to the engine to use the proper diameter, so trust but verify these details!

Finishing tape

Finishing tape (aka rib tape, pinking tape, reinforcing tape) is used to smooth fabric covering where fabric has been sewn on, like ribs. So rib tape is used where the fabric covering is sewn to the ribs, and because the thread used for the job shows, this is subsequently covered by tape with pinked edges to smooth them out and reduce drag.

Sewing at the ribs was developed post WWI and has been used on fabric covered airplanes ever since with rare exceptions like PT-22 which used screws, instead. Or Grumman’s Ag Cat, which has rivets versus sewing, and in all instances, sewing, screws, or rivets, they are covered in pinked tape.

So to keep the edge of a thin strip of fabric from possibly lifting up because of the air pressure, the straight edge is pinked with serrated shears. This create both more surface area adhering to the covering plus a sharp corner as a tear-off point.

Note: FAA document AC43.13-1B is the bible on the subject and should be consulted if you’re getting into competition so you do it right. Anyway, while 3″ wide tape is fairly common in the full scale world, once again, if you’re replicating a particular aircraft, you want to get it right, so measure (or ask the owner).

Why 3 inches? Simple because for a generic build at 1/6th scale, 1/2″ wide pinked tape works fine (3 ÷ 0.5 = 6 and the reciprocal of 6 is 1/6, which confirms it). Beginning to see how using scale is useful?

Anyway, 1/2″ is plenty close enough for a 1/5.7 model unless you’re competing. Let me say it again, unless you’re, a) replicating a specific aircraft, or b) competing in a judged event, 1/2″ wide is likely going to look fine.

Shears to scale

So while the thrifty full-scale aircraft builder will use excess fabric and make their own rib tape, or finishing tape with pinking shears, a source of pre-cut tape in the full scale world is Wick’s Aircraft. They show ready availability of rolls in 1-1/2″, 2″, 3″, 4″, and even 6″ wide.

This brings us to pinked tape at reduced scale. Since standard pinking shears have 1/4in pitch, then let’s take a brief birdwalk deeper into the subject of scale shears. This, because full scale serrations at 1/4in wide (6.35mm) are too large for model use and still look right. And ‘looking’ right is an important concept as we’ll develop a bit later.

Thus, the question of scale – this time as it relates to the pitch of the serrations – raises its head. Or put another way, the serrations have to be scaled to look ‘right’ because 1/4″ pitch, the serrations for full-scale, would look simply silly!

So the finest pitch shears I’ve found commercially available are 2mm, which is between 1/4 (6.35/4=1.6mm) and 1/3 scale (6.35/3=2.1mm) but a dead ringer for 1/3 for anybody other than a judge with a scale in their hands.

Note; large scale models (think 1/4 and 1/3 scale) are easy, in my opinion, because pinked iron-on tape for these models is readily available.

Just reach out to the likes of Pink-it, Mick Reeves, and others. Or for a 1/3 scale model, cut your own with 2mm shears if you’re a roll your own sort and be plenty close enough.

1/6th scale at the highest levels

But if you’d like to simulate the rib stitching with pinked tape at 1/6th scale, then you’re a glutton for punishment – and Mick Reeves will laser cut the stuff for you. But if you’re like another of our customers, Ben Andrus and his Grumman G164A Ag Cat, he says you don’t actually bother with the pinked edge at 1/6th. Say what?

Note: this lovely photo taken at dusk is the work of the fabulous Finnish photographer Mika Jylhä, who is responsible for this and the flying shots of the Ag Cat. We gratefully acknowledge his generous permission to share his work.

So Ben’s model took 3rd in static at the 2024 World’s in F4C. And note; it’s at a tremendous comparative disadvantage because of its diminutive build at 1/6th scale. Not only that – but – it came within a whisker (just 1-point off the pace) of garnering 2nd best in the world!

Yet the pinked tape of the Grumman G164A Ag Cat model actually has no serrations. Instead, the fabric edges frayed enough to be totally convincing – enough so as to compete at the highest levels!

Yet done this way on a model at the local club field, would likely see modelers calling you out. Just saying there’s reality and then there’s actual reality, or how things are.

In this next photo, we see the surface in the sealer coat (white) before the color coat (yellow). The edges are even more prominent than they will be after being coated with paint. Yet they’ll still show as minute serrations.

Putting this in context, at 1/6th Ben’s model is considered much too small to be competing with 1/3 scale models. Why? Due to the difficulties of dealing with winds the larger models laugh at.

Like the aircraft is operating at significant disadvantage!

And yet compete it did in Romania, giving larger models a run for their money and proving once and for all – it’s not the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog!

For our part, we’re honored it’s equipped with ProModeler servos.

On why 1/6th, is 1/6th, is 1/6th

So we’ve come to refer to Ben’s model as the little biplane that could. But here’s the thing about 1/6th scale. If Bob’s Decathlon were set immediately next to this championship caliber Grumman bipe, it would look perfectly correct because both are built to 1/6th scale.

And this is the beauty of building to a scale, everything at the same scale, 1/6th scale in this instance, looks correct besides each other. Obviously this looks radically different when you place a 1/3rd scale model beside a 1/6th scale.

But interestingly, it becomes more difficult to distinguish a smaller scale aircraft besides a 1/6th. For example, an 1/8th scale build.

So if we set Bret Becker’s 1/8th scale U-2, which spans 120″ and would span 150″ at 1/6th scale, beside the Decathlon and G164A, it wouldn’t look as goofy as interposing a 1/3rd scale model.

This is due to how the human eye works and is similar to what I explained with regard to pilot figures. Some things can be fudged, others? Not so much.

So wrapping up this bit about detailing at 1/6th scale, the edges of the pinked tape disappear beneath the paint, so to make it look right, you don’t and frayed edges turned out more competitive.

Not that this makes it ‘right’, just that it’s invisible so it’s pointless doing 1mm pitch edges that once painted turn out looking the same as if nothing at all had been done! So there’s a better way, frayed edges when you’re working at really small scales.

Tricks of the trade

One last thing – and – just because I feel like showing it. Ben Andrus kindly share images with us for this article (we’re working on a proFILE regarding his 2024 achievement at the Worlds in Romania).

So these next photos are especially telling because they show one of the tricks of the trade. In this next photo, eyeball closely the woven surface of the black rubber fiber reinforced hose on a Grumman G164A Ag Cat fluid system.

And take note of the weathering, and surface corrosion on fasteners. Basically, get a sense of how working aircraft look because this aircraft is literally a tool. So the question is, how do you replicate something as worn and weary as this?

That was a trick question because you don’t. In point of fact, the above photo is of the Andrus model, not the real thing. So now, let me show you something astonishing. What?

So this photo of the Grumman fluid system above? This is the secret of how he did this and in this next photo, he shows how he achieved the subtle woven effect of the rubber hose.

He faked it with paint by spraying through fiberglass cloth. That’s the tip of his thumb to give you a sense of scale.

Pinked tape, part 2

So back to the pinked tape. If the goal is to make the 1/6th model look right to the eye, then you cheat! Cheat? Yes, you cheat! How?

Simple, just like using a slightly larger pilot looks right in the cockpit, then just use a larger pitch on the pinked tape, also. Saying the 1/3 scale pitch that comes of cutting your own pinked edge tape using the 2mm pitch of the shears actually looks OK for a 1/5.7 model because while it’s technically wrong, it nevertheless looks right to the eye . . . and looking right is what matters.

Especially true considering Bob wasn’t building to compete and be judged, he built for his own pleasure.

So a Decathlon with the pinked tape detail added looks better for it, even if the pitch isn’t perfect. True even if slightly too large, in my opinion (and opinions, like belly buttons, are something we all have), it looks better!

Yet another way

So now let me show you yet another way of scoring 1/2″ pinked edge tape before we wrap this up and move on to the actual equipment selection. Involves a product modelers of a certain age will recognize because their wives may have used it. Scotch No. 170 Hair Set Tape.

And it’s readily available off Amazon and eBay just in case the urge hits to add a bit of detail to your next fabric covered model airplane!

Faces and finishes

So the earlier example of a pinked edge tape job was of this particular Decathlon, which shows the attention to detail of a very skilled model builder. Honestly, the average club pilot opts for plastic film covering (think UltraCoat).

Nothing wrong with this – but – for a fabric covered Decathlon, while film is OK at best, fabric is better. And better by a country mile! So although few will opt for doing it, note; the fabric may be either an iron on synthetic, which is heat shrunk like film, or traditional silk and dope – plus paint.

For the curious, a few thoughts on the latter:

• Silk and dope – demystifying modeling’s classic finish!

. . . but straight up, very few modelers go to the effort of painting because it’s a lot of work.

Much less the added work of detailing with pinked tape. Saying this level of effort distinguishes an expert working to a high standard.

So to the question, how did Bob’s Decathlon get such an attractive finish? A lot of hard work! But material-wise, he used Sig Koverall fabric plus the Poly-Fiber paint system, to include:

• Poly-Tak (to adhere the fabric)
• Poly-Brush (to seal the weave)
• Poly-Spray (to fill the weave)
• Poly-Tone (Champion Yellow)
• Poly Tone (Black)
• Poly Tone (White)
• Star Bursts (paint masks)

Builder’s notes

Bob Davis shares the following:

The paint follows a full scale process. Tapes (pinked edge tape) come in a variety of sizes depending on the scale you are building.

Perimeter framework (wing, fuse, stab, rudder, elevator) is coated with a product called Poly-Tak adhesive. Fabric (SIG Koverall) is then laid in place and a coat of the same adhesive is worked through the fabric to glue it in place and then carefully trimmed. Then apply heat to shrink the fabric.

Next is a brushed on coat of fabric sealer, Poly-Brush, over all surfaces to seal the weave. Then all the tapes are laid into a wet coat of Poly-Brush and then a wet coat of Poly-Brush is applied over the tape. Set all aside for about an hour to let it flash off.

There will invariably be some tape edges that need a bit of ironing to make them flat. When happy with this stage another light coat of Poly-Brush is sprayed on. Let it flash off for a day.

Next step is to spray one coat of silver fabric weave filler called Poly-Spray. It also contains a sun block component. When this has flashed off dry you can actually do some light sanding with a 600 grit to further prep it for color.

The I then spray with Poly-Tone for color. Poly-Tone is one of the easiest, most forgiving, products I have ever used. Weight after all this not much more than the pre-finished iron on fabric like Solartex. The whole process is a bit pricey but very satisfying.

As a side note you can buy the tapes with adhesive already applied. I believe they are cut from Solartex but are very pricey.

So there you have it from the horse’s mouth!

Terms: assemble, build, scratch

Note the use of the term builder, as in Bob Davis built a model from a kit is correct in this instance. The emphasis is on the word ‘build’ for a reason. So now, for another birdwalk, terms – short for terminology.

Many use the term ‘built’ rather loosely. For example, they’ll say, ‘I built this model’, when in truth, they assembled an ARF. No offense but that’s not building.

So as a dedicated wordsmith, I’m quibbling over this because words matter. Having been involved with RC model airplanes since the early 1970s gives me a different frame of reference to the world built.

It’s a perspective gained from before ARF models existed. So back then if you wanted a model airplane, you a) bought a kit, or b) built it from plans, or c) drew your own plans and scratch-built it (distinct and different from building a kit). You never scratch build from someone else’s plans, only from your own drawings.

Scratch built has a special, and rather specific connotation amongst the three levels of model builders. Builders are classified at 3 stages;

• Builders (from kits)
• Builders (from plans)
• Scratch builders (from own design plans)

So the scratch builder is the highest level of builder, same as a buck sergeant (three stripes) outranks a corporeal (two stripes), and both outrank a PFC (one stripe).

And while builder is lowest rank, it’s still waaay ahead of assembling.

So having done all three (built from a kit, built from plans, and have made my own plans and scratch built), then because each represents a stripe on your figurative sleeve of accomplishments, I’m careful about what I say. I caution you by way of heads up because you may be judged for taking credit you don’t deserve. Saying it would be embarrassing for an experienced modelers to callously do this, but I’ve seen it happen. Just saying.

Major point being, opening a box and being presented with wood, like sheets of balsa, bits of plywood, hardwood, and strip stock, plus a set of plans is a whole different proposition to an ARF. Minor point being, the Bellanca Decathlon wasn’t an ARF, and Bob built the model, which ended up looking like this before he covered it.

Building from plans

So what if you want to build a model of this Bellanca Decathlon, but no kit is available? Turns out there’s a solution, Outerzone in the UK, a free plans service. Free is a good price, agreed?

Here’s a link to the 1/6th Decathlon model, which as usual for all the links in this article, open in a separate tab within your browser so you don’t lose your place:

• 1/6th scale Pilot RC Bellanca Decathlon plans

In fact, Outerzone has a vast repository of user contributed plans and they are one of my favorite places to stroll down memory lane. Why? Just because of the sheer number of plans they host which were build articles in magazines I remember growing up.

Plus they often have detail sheets, like this construction guide.

So once you find a set of plans to your liking, just take them to a printer and get them printed. Any Office Depot will happily do the job for a surprisingly small charge.

Heck, you can even change the scale if you like! Only tricky bit is making up the cowl and wheel pants. Yet it’s nobbut a small problem for the enterprising builder, believe me.

But a subject for another white paper.

Equipment selection

So let’s get down to it, the equipment selection. I offered a few alternatives to Bob, and wise modeler that he is, when he came to a fork in the road, he took it . . . just like another wise American!

The key to successfully flying small scale models where they are performing as realistically as possible is in controlling all up weight. Earlier I mentioned Ben Andrus and his little bipe that could, the Grumman G164A built to 1/6th scale (the same scale as Bob’s model of the Decathlon).

For his model, Ben opted for DS75CLHV sub-micro servos in the four wing panels. Each is on an individual channel. And tellingly, Ben mentions using a load meter to ensure nothing is binding. This is what expert modelers always do.

So as I always do, I guide modelers on a basis of good, better, best when it comes to selecting their servos. For this class of model, especially one designed so many years ago, the recommended servos will seem laughable.

Note; an indication of how far advanced Y. Matsumoto actually was in his thinking, way back when he had individual servos mounted within pockets within the bays between ribs, and showing the foresight that lays in genius, the servo’s output shaft rotates in the same plane of rotation as the hinge line.

How smart is this? There are high dollar models today where lazy designers drop the servo vertically into pockets such that the servo spline rotates 90° to the rotation of the hinge line.

Means as the servo arm reaches an extreme of travel, both forward and aft, then the ball link swings inward toward the centerline of the model, and outward again as it gets to neutral. So it swivels in and out like a drunken sailor.

Nothing really wrong other than it offends me, but still . . . duh!

End result? Servo linkages translate widely side-to-side during travel.

But built into the surface this way, since the rotation of the servo output shaft is parallel and within the same plane as the hinges, then the linkage rods stays perfectly parallel to the airflow regardless of throw.

The pocket method is a much more elegant way of doing things in my opinion.

Wing servos

Back in the day, a recommended aileron servo was a Futaba S9601:

• Dimensions: 31mm x 16mm x 30.2mm
• Speed: 0.15 sec / 60 angle at 4.8v
• Torque: 2.4 kg-cm at 4.8

These days, we have two solid alternatives in either a ProModeler DS100DLHV, or if your pockets are deeper, the DS150CLHV.

These are the same size and only differ in their electronics as even the gear train between them is similar. At 29mm x 13.5mm x 30.3mm they are a drop in replacement. Ours kill the old Futaba servos.

• DS100DLHV – 100oz-in @ 0.13sec/60°
• DS150CLHV – 100oz-in @ 0.08sec/60°

Rudder/Elevator/Throttle servos

So when Pilot RC released this model, the recommended servos for the stabs and throttle was a standard class servo. Our recommendations for the stabs and throttle are:

• Good – DS90DLHV for all three
• Better – DS100DLHV micros for all three
• Best – DS110CLHV minis for rudder/elevator and DS100DLHV throttle

And for what it’s worth, Ben Andrus used ProModeler servos within his lovely Grumman G164A Ag Cat model, and despite the 14.5lb AUW (all-up weight) went with the same DS110CLHV mini for elevator, plus a more robust standard-class DS130DLHV on rudder.

Propulsion

The recommended propulsion source back in the day was a .40 class engine, a four-stroke is shown on the plans.

However, Bob shared he planned to use an electric motor for propulsion, which strikes me as a sensible solution for the model. This is the equipment he chose:

• Motor – Cobra 4130/12 540KV
• Prop – wooden 14×8.5
• ESC – Cobra 80A
• Battery – B5S5000 (5-cell 5000mAh LiPo)

So the prop at 14″ is in the ball-park, as we discussed and he reports power is plentiful and he cruises the aircraft at part throttle. All about as expected for the type.

Quid pro quo

The Latin phrase quid pro quo translates to “this for that” implying an exchange. So now it’s time for the pro quo part of this because the useful information has been the quid.

Or put another way, what’s in it for us. Kindly allow me to relate what recommends our servos above the alternatives available to you.

Since we figure what motivates folks is, ‘What’s in it for me?‘, let me briefly show you what leads folks to ProModeler servos. This, in hopes you’ll see something that piques your interest enough to try a set in your next model. Here’s what we’ll touch on:

• Allen head fasteners
• 13 seals and o-rings
• Bronze hard points
• Boxing the output shaft
• Stainless steel gear train
• Finned aluminum center case
• Potting compound
• Eight MIL-STD

Allen head fasteners

As opposed to four Phillips head fasteners holding your servos together, we use grade 12.9 Allen head fasteners.

And we use 10 vs 4, with six at the transmission section, and four at the electronics section.

13 seals and o-rings

Bronze hard points

So when most servos have gear shafts sitting within plastic, ProModeler reinforces the case with bronze bushings, instead. So unless your money grows on trees, this should be of special interest as these help keep the servo gear trains from wearing prematurely.

Boxing the output shaft

Boxing means instead of four assembly bolts securing the transmission section, we add two more near the output shaft to help reduce flex. This is termed boxing or cornering the bearing. End result is a stiffer section of the case, which helps the gear train better resit forces torquing it out of shape.

Every ProModeler is built this way and and it’s mo’ betta!

Stainless steel gear train

From mini-class on up, we’ve switched from brass/steel to all-stainless steel in our gear trains. Harder, more durable, this is what you want in servo gear trains.

Finned aluminum center case

Know internally as the porcupine for the ten steel bolts standing proud of the case like quills when the critter is on defense, the center case of every ProModeler servo similarly defends your financial interests. How? Simple, because it’s CNC-machined from a solid billet of 6061-T6 aircraft aluminum. What for? To serve as a heat sink. Compared to servos without cooling fins, or worse, made with plastic cases this is money in the bank because heat’s the enemy of electronics.

Potting compound

So the military insists on potting compound on electronics components to protect against shock and vibration. Otherwise, all that holds the tiny surface mount components in place is the solder, which is prone to fracture. Saying bits will vibrate right off the PCB if they’re not reinforced with this stuff!

Eight MIL-STD

The basic idea is to produce a better, more reliable product.

As compared to the alternatives, conventional hobby grade products, ProModeler puts something better in your hands. How? By turning the old-school business models on their heads and cutting out the middlemen.

Did you know the typical $40 servo sees 15% going to the importer, right off the top. Then the distributor gets a 25% cut, and next, the hobby dealer earns a 40% margin . . . all for merely touching the product between production and your wallet.

So putting numbers to this, you pay $40, hobby shop paid $24, distributor paid $18, importer paid $14, and the guy in east Asia? He made it for about $7, and thus, earning his daily rice bowl for his effort.

Us? We’re into the thing for about $32, earning really similar money to the guy in overseas. Difference is, instead of a bunch of guys wetting their beaks, the money those guys skim off gets spent on making a better servo. This is how we give you an alloy case with cooling fins, Allen head versus Phillips head bolts, o-rings and seal, potting compound, bronze bushings, stainless steel gears, etc.

Like you are actually getting more bang for your buck. Just saying.

Closing

So we’ve had a look at the equipment list for this model, and delved into scale and why it matters, and touched on paint, and even shared a trick of the trade. And you’ve put up with our showing what’s in it for you if you give our servos a try.

If you have questions, reach out via email or phone and I’ll try to help.

• Email: info@promodeler.com
• Tel: 407-302-3361